Chaotic Glacier, Otis Peak, and Taylor Peak.

I am in the middle of a week or so off between jobs, and have been enjoying some time in the mountains.  It seems as though I have inadvertently left some of the most difficult destinations in the park for last. With a fair amount of snow hanging around, I thought I'd use this time to tackle two snow climbs I have yet to do.  Unfortunately, these are both toward the steeper and harder side, and with sunrise about as early as it can possibly be, this meant a very early wake up to ensure firm snow from bottom to top.

There were some thunderstorms at the beginning of the week, but good weather predicted for the rest.  Monday night I got to bed late with my alarm set for two am.  I hadn't been able to find much on Chaotic Glacier, the snow and ice headwall that lies at the end of Chaos Canyon, home to Lake Haiyaha.  This page talks about Chaos Couloir, which directly ascends Hallett Peak, but also mentions Chaotic Glacier as 60 degrees AI2.  This page talkes about skiing down it.  And this page does actually talk about climbing it, though she says 35-40 degrees and mentions it only took 15 minutes!  Foster says 50-60 degrees, AI2.  Rossiter says steep snow, AI2.  That's about all that's out there on the internet and in books that I own.

Because I could find lots of ratings but only one account of someone actually climbing it, I wasn't quite sure what to expect.  There is a big difference between 35 and 60 degrees of course, but from the photos I could find, it looked closer to the latter.  Consider 35 degrees is around what you'd find on Ptarmigan Glacier, or on the easier sections of Tyndall Glacier.  It definitely looks steeper, though it's always hard to tell.

I left the car at Bear Lake shortly before four and set off.  I didn't sleep well the night before, I think due to nervousness about the day ahead.  But I felt pretty okay. 

Presunrise from the trail.  There was still some snow here and there, most notably after passing the turnoff for Dream and Emerald Lakes.
I lost the official trail as I neared Lake Haiyaha, but all I had to do was go around the lake and head up, so it was pretty easy.  Easy in the talus hopping scramble sense.  

Above Lake Haiyaha as a new day starts.
There was pretty consistent snow from the lake on up, and I generally tried to say on that.  I wore microspikes for this.  Things were firm and looking good.  Except for the lingering weather, hanging on the continental divide.  I was pretty far up the canyon before I was able to briefly see the glacier, and determine that there definitely wasn't a cornice at the top.

It's almost directly in the middle here, not that you can tell!

Some avalanche debris visible near the bottom.
I stopped at a rock before things got too steep and got geared up.  Helmet, crampons, ice axe, and just in case, an ice tool.  

The entrance to the glacier wasn't too bad, I'd say up until that rock band in the middle nothing more than moderate.  I took this photo from that band.

Here's what things looked like from that band.  Doesn't even look like 45 degrees here.

But all I had to do was look up to see that things were going to get steeper.  

From closer to the top, but still not at the steepest section.  

Looking down from there.
I definitely felt having a second tool added a sense of security, and I was able to move more confidently though the steeper stuff.

At the top.
The weather prediction was high of 49 and sunny.  Yep.  It was around 30, windy, and either gently precipitating, or blowing whatever had fallen the day before all around.  In other words, I was glad to have brought some colder weather gear, as I almost hadn't, and the day would have been pretty miserable without it.  As it was, I was right on the edge of discomfort.
Since everything was covered in a thin layer of ice, I put the microspikes back on.  From here I planned to summit Otis, and then go to Taylor before returning to and descending Andrews Glacier.  I'd already done the thing I came for, but figured some time at altitude working hard couldn't hurt.

Going up Otis.

Very close to the summit, which almost looks like being on another planet.  

At the summit of Otis Peak, 12,486 feet.
Now it was a short descent to Andrews Pass.  Since I wasn't going up and generating as much body heat, I felt a little chilly, again right on the edge of being cold.  But I was able to get below the cloudline, and while still quite windy, enjoy some sunshine and warm up a little at Andrews Pass.

This sign says something about how descending Andrews Glacier can be dangerous.  

Looks nice down there!
There is a small boulder at the pass, which was a nice wind block.  I put on the last layer I had, ate a snack, and shivered.  I wanted to go down, but Taylor Glacier was also something I intended to climb in this week, and I wanted to get a look at that.  Well, if the clouds broke.  I could not see the summit of Taylor from where I was.

Which made it look reasonably shorter.  This is one of those peaks that just doesn't seem to end.  It is less than a mile from Andrews Pass, but around 1200 feet of gain, so it takes some time. 

Sky Pond from Taylor Peak.

Taylor Peak summit cairn, June 14, 2016.
I headed down the other side for a short distance, and was able to catch a few glimpses of the Taylor Glacier through the clouds.  It was enough to tell me it looked good to go.  Well, steep and intimidating, but without a dangerous cornice at the top.
I headed back around Taylor, staying on snow almost the entire way down to the pass. 

The clouds briefly broke and I got to see Hallett for the first time this day.

Andrews Glacier was already pretty soft at ten thirty in the morning.  I had a nice glissade down some of it.  I was surprised to not see anyone at the tarn. 

But not surprised when I saw the slope below the tarn, which looks to be steeper than Andrews Glacier.
There was a fair amount of snow from here back to the trail to Sky Pond, and I lost the broken in trail.  No worries though, I just had to descend into the valley to pick up the trail.  From there, I started seeing the first people I'd see this day.  I took the Fire Trail down, but then had to take the trail back up from the Glacier Gorge intersection to Bear Lake.  I must've passed thirty people on this trail.  Bear Lake was teeming with people.  It's always strange to come back to that after being alone most of the day.
So, about that glacier.  I would say maximum of 50-60 degrees, which comes shortly before you reach the top.  To my eyes, the side to the right (north) looked slightly steeper than the side on the left.  It took me exactly 50 minutes to ascend from 11,350 feet, what I would consider the apron of the glacier, to the top at 12,040 feet, so we'll say 700 feet of climbing.  It really didn't feel too bad overall, but of course you must make sure you have the experience and equipment necessary to climb this glacier.  This would not be a good place to learn how to self arrest, and a fall could certainly result in serious injury or worse due to some of the lower rocky sections.  I found a second tool to be of great benefit while climbing.  I'd suggest late spring as a good time to go, as conditions were great and the snow coverage above Lake Haiyaha definitely made the approach alot easier.
There you have it internet world.  Some definitive information on climbing Chaotic Glacier.  Do with it as you will, have fun, and be safe out there!
Chaotic Glacier, Otis Peak, and Taylor Peak (distances as part of the loop):
Chaotic Glacier, 11,350-12,040 feet: 3.15 miles to apron, 2590 foot gain to top.  700 feet of climbing on 50-60 degree snow, AI2, second class.  Strenuous.*
Otis Peak, 12486 feet: 3.8 miles, 3036 foot gain.  Second class.  Moderate+.
Taylor Peak, 13153 feet: 5.3 miles, 3703 foot gain.  Second class.  Strenuous-.
As a whole, this hike covered approximately 10.6 miles with 4700 feet of elevation gain.  Strenuous.
*= Again, I will say this requires special equipment and skill.  Do not attempt this climb unless you have both. 

Five lake loop and Lake Haiyaya Knobs

Occasionally I will check Listsofjohn.com (truly a great reference) to make sure I have gotten to every named peak in a certain area, just to double check.  As I have said a few times in the past, while an incredible reference, Fosters book doesn't include every peak in the park.  There are several ranked but unofficially named peaks that didn't make the cut, and ranked but unnamed peaks were not included either.  

In this case, the 'knobs' around Lake Haiyaha were named in the book "Backcountry Skiing and Ski Mountaineering in Rocky Mountain National Park” by Mark Kelly, which came out in 2013, well after Fosters book was published, thus they are not in her book.

The Knobs near Lake Haiyaha.

Anyway, it was during one of my forays on LOJ that I noticed these high points pop up.  It would be a short day to get them, and certainly violate my unoffical "the total time of the drive each way must be shorter than the time of the activity rule".  When hiking, that is usually no concern!

So I decided to string together a series of lakes in a loop, and run it... well, as much as I could.  Thus I planned to start at Glacier Gorge, take the trail by Alberta Falls to Mills Lake, then hit the Loch, then Lake Haiyaya and the knobs, then Dream Lake, and finally Nymph Lake before taking the trail back down to Glacier Gorge.  Bear or Emerald Lakes could easily be added on for (slightly) more distance.

There were a few other cars in the parking lot when I arrived, but nothing like what was there when I got back.

Half Mountain from the trail.

Mills Lake was beautiful as always.  A quick moment here and I headed back down.

Longs Peak in clouds.  It was only hours before that Andrew Hamilton had finished off the 14ers here, and set a new record of 9 days, 21 hours, and 51 minutes to take almost a full day off the record that had been in place for 15 years!  Well done Andrew and my congrats!
I turned off to The Loch and started up.  Not too long after I was there.

I could see some people working their way around the lake en route to higher altitudes.
The trail from The Loch junction to Lake Haiyaha held some of the steepest terrain of the day, and I simply quickly hiked most of it.  This marks the first time I'd been on this trail in the summer.

Lake Haiyaha is pretty cool.  I think this would stand out in my mind as a nice family destination because it is just hard enough, has great views, and I can imagine kids having a ton of fun exploring the boulders in the area.
After the lake, I got back on the trail headed north and took off east shortly after to find Knob #4.  I didn't take a photo from it, but it was just a short walk over.
From that I headed down to Chaos Canyon Cascades, a series of falls that I had yet to visit. 

This was pretty cool.  Very peaceful to be so close to a very popular trail yet feel completely isolated.  Simply follow a thin trail down the south side of the creek when you cross the outlet.  It's maybe five minutes from the trail.

This small boulder marked the high point of Goblin Knob.  It's a short third class scramble to the top.

The view to points north. 

And a great view to Longs Peak, Thatchtop, and Knob #4 dead center.

Some clearing on Longs.
The Bulge is mere feet from the trail, but again I did not take a photo.  From there I headed uphill west over some rocky and bushwhacky terrain to arrive at Dream Knob.  Due to the off trail travel, this was definitely the most difficult of the high points to find. 

Dream Knob and twisted pines.
I went back down to the trail and then made a similar approach to Knob #1, again not pictured, and again just a short jaunt off the trail.
I got back on the trail and headed down.  It was a different experience.  I am usually used to seeing no one at all, but passed a ton of people as I headed down.  I arrived to a full parking lot about three hours after I'd left.
This was a fun shorter day.  Chaos Canyon Cascades is certainly worth the short side trip down from the trail, and is more impressive than some of the named waterfalls in the park.  Of the knobs, I'd suggest Goblin Knob and Knob #4 as being the best as both are relatively easy to get to, and both offer some pretty darn good views.
Five Lake Loop and the Knobs:
Mills Lake, 9940 feet: 2.7 miles one way, 760 foot gain.  Moderate.
The Loch, 10180 feet: 2.9 miles one way, 1000 foot gain.  Moderate.
Lake Haiyaha, 10220 feet: 3.3 miles one way, 1040 foot gain.  Moderate.*
Chaos Canyon Cascades, 9840 feet: 3ish miles one way, 660 foot gain.  Moderate.*
Knob #4, 10180 feet: 3ish miles one way, 1000 foot gain.  Moderate.*
Goblin Knob, 10220 feet: 3ish miles one way, 1040 foot gain.  Moderate.*
The Bulge, 10190 feet: 3.2ish miles one way, 1010 foot gain.  Moderate.*
Dream Knob, 10460 feet: 3.3ish miles one way, 1280 foot gain.  Moderate.*
Knob #1, 10260 feet: 3.3ish miles one way, 1080 foot gain.  Moderate.*
Dream Lake, 9900 feet: 1.1 miles one way, 450 foot gain.  Easy+.
Nymph Lake, 9700 feet: .6 miles one way, 250 foot gain.  Easy.
* = From Glacier Gorge TH, subtract about a mile if starting from Bear Lake TH.
As a whole, this hike covered approximately 8 miles with 2000 feet of elevation gain.  Moderate.

Lake Haiyaha via Glacier Gorge TH.

The weather has been massively cold lately, though we fortunately seem to be at an uptick.  However, just a week ago the high temps along the front range were in the single digits with negative double digits in some of the mountain towns.
Though this past Tuesday was certainly warmer, it was still only eleven degrees when we started from the Glacier Gorge trail head to take the winter route to Lake Haiyaha.  This lake is named after a Native American word for rock, and upon arrival you will see why.  The longer and harder to follow route from Glacier Gorge is the preferred method in the winter since the summer access via Bear Lake travels through and under a possible avalanche path on the finger of land extending east from Hallett Peak.  The route from Glacier Gorge avoids this risk for the most part.
Snow drifted across Bear Lake road and high winds led us to start out in snowshoes, and we kept them on the entire day.  It was also so cold that I didn't stop to take many photos.  Even taking short snack breaks left us quickly going from comfortably warm to too cold quite quickly.

Along the Glacier Gorge trail.  It was somewhat packed in places, but as we'd guessed, hadn't seen much traffic since the last snowfall since the temps have been so low.  Add to that the wind blown drifts, and we were glad to have our snowshoes!

Half Mountain as seen from the trail.  It looks pretty intimidating and bad ass from this side, but when viewed from other places that are higher, it looks tiny.
It was pretty easy to follow the trails path until we got to the intersection with the Loch Vale and Lake Haiyaha trails.  Though we could at times see signs that someone had been along this way before us, their trail was not very distinct most of the way, and not well broken.  Which means things got harder.

But of course, with effort comes reward, here in this delicate photo of our freshly broken trail through the forest.  These winter days are quite special, and in my opinion, well worth the slight discomforts of the cold and wind.

Fresh, unbroken powder as we near Lake Haiyaha.  

And upwards.
As we neared the lake, route finding became a bit difficult.  There is alot of rock here, and at first we thought an empty spot we could see in the forest was the lake.  When that proved not to be, we went up a little, then down a little before deciding up was the answer. 
We also crossed a small area that was just at about the minimum angle needed to avalanche.  I heard a loud whumpf and saw a twenty foot crack form right in front of me.  A quick retreat and we went a different way.

We finally arrived at the lake right near this large boulder which is familiar to many of you whom have been there before.  It lies right on the edge of the lake, with the northern side submerged in water.
It bears mentioning Chaos Canyon (which contains the lake) holds a wealth of hard bouldering, containing such problems as Jade, Riddles in the Park, The Automator, Nuthin' but Sunshine, and Secret Splendor (an appropriate name for the area). 

Hallett Peak up there somewhere.  It was colder and windier.  After a few photos, we immediately started heading down.

Finally reaching some shelter, we took a snack break and got cold.
Of course, going down along our already broken trail was much easier than going up.  In the end, it took us about three hours and fifteen minutes up and two hours back down.  In summer conditions I'd like to say I could do this in 2-3 hours round trip.
We came upon two others around the Loch Vale junction who were trying to get to Mills Lake(and others, just search for Mills Lake!).  Of course they were lost and unprepared without a map!  It sounded like they'd been up this way in the summer before and had followed the trail most of the way up in the snow, but had gotten turned around and confused in the snow.  Hiking in the winter is a different beast; I've remarked in the past how something so familiar can be rendered exactly the opposite by a layer of snow. 

 Half Mountain from the Glacier Gorge trail, still looking quite bad ass.

We arrived back at the parking to find four other cars.  More than we though would be there.  It was now up to a balmy twelve degrees.  The new winter gear I'd invested in this year worked wonderfully, and kept my hands, feet, and face pretty warm.  I would venture that this day could be close to the worst conditions I'll face this winter, but we shall see.
Lake Haiyaha is a fun destination.  It's too bad everything was so socked in because I am sure it offers some really great views of the surrounding peaks.  I will definitely be back up here this summer to check out some of the climbing, though most or all of it is way beyond my abilities.  It is decided more difficult in the winter, particularly if you need to break a trail in on the way up.  And make sure you know where you are going!
Lake Haiyaha via winter access (10221 feet): 3.5 miles one way, 981 foot gain.  Moderate+.