McHenrys Notch via Flattop Mountain.

Before I even start, just let me gush a little bit: these are the kind of days I absolutely love.  A long day above treeline, stringing together a line of peaks with some technical difficulties near the end, and then a drop down to a secluded and beautiful alpine lake.  It could only be made better by making the return trip past Black Lake, Jewel Lake, and Mills Lake, some of my all time favorites!  

With a 30% chance of thunderstorms predicted after noon, I got an early rise, and left the car at Bear Lake at 4:32.  I was hoping I'd be able to move quickly while on trail, to make up for the slower movement sure to come while talus hopping.

Presunrise from the trail.

The absurdity of this all sort of struck me.  I'd be doing a pretty big day to visit one thing, the notch pictured in the distance here.  But there are going to be a few days like that this year.  

A little bit closer up.  

I was above treeline as the sun broke the horizon, and moving well so far.  

I went right past Flattop and headed for Hallett.  I was on the summit for this great view exactly two hours after I left the car, and about fifty minutes after sunrise.  It was pretty neat to be able to see all the peaks I'd be visiting over the day.

I didn't get the camera out again until Taylor Peak.  This is the third time I've been on top of it since June.   

Looking back to whence I came on this glorious day.

I noticed that you can indeed see Lake Catherine from Taylor Peak.  This is one of the most isolated lakes in the park.  In a short time, I'd see another.

Between Taylor and Powell, Chiefs Head on the left and Mount Alice on the right.

At Powell.  My speed really went downhill after Otis Peak.  My hip was hurting and I wasn't able to jog.  I guess I just didn't feel motivated.

To McHenrys.  I'd say this is one of the more difficult peaks in the park, with sustained class three climbing from the easiest route, which was on the opposite side of where I was.  From the Notch, I've read 5.3.  I got my helmet out, because from here on I'd be in some loose terrain. 
I've read a few other trip reports where it sounded like people had some trouble finding the correct gully to get to the notch.  From the summit of Powell, move toward Alice.  You should find the gully in just a few steps.  Here's what it looks like from the top.

Powell Lake at the bottom of the gully.  Like Lake Catherine it is a long approach to get here.

Looking back up the gully from near the top.  It was solid for a short amount of time, but overall, pretty loose, though I'd say only second class.  As you head down, keep an eye on the wall to your left.  You have to go down a few hundred feet, but eventually you'll see a cairn.

There it is.  There was a fallen one out of this photo on the lower left.  I rebuilt it to aid any future adventurers.  

 Lake Powell and Mount Alice proved to be quite photogenic from this angle. 

Another cairn.  There were some along the way, but a few places devoid of them.  However, I felt the route was pretty easy to follow.  You are just traversing around the rock rib to your left, and want to stay at the same elevation essentially.  I thought there were a few third class moves here, but it was nowhere near the slippery, lichen covered ledge systems I've ready of others taking.  

But of course, you don't want to fall here!

You end up spit out in the gully containing the notch itself, maybe a hundred feet or so below the notch proper.  It's easy movement to the top.  

Looking NE from the notch.  The couloir still looked packed with snow from what I could see.

And once more, Lake Powell.

Looking back down the notch on the SW side.  Not too bad to come up.
I looked at the climb up out of the notch.  Imposing, yes, but I have read many trip reports from people who I think have a similar level of experience and ability.  I wasn't too worried.
The first fifty feet or so are solidly in third and fourth class.  Then, you hit the first crux.  I'd agree with 5.3, though the holds are large and there are quite a bit of them.  Enough really, that you can kind of choose precisely which way you want to go.  Just make sure you stay on the SW side of the ridge, as that is the path of least resistance. 

Past the crux, I found the lower rappel sling, and it looked in great shape.  While exposed, I'd say this section was back into third and fourth class, with fairly wide ledges.  You could sit down and take a break here if you wanted to.

Looking up at more climbing- I think I initially spied a way up this, but ended up feeling it was too exposed and headed to the left side to find some bigger holds.

The higher rappel is almost directly across here.  Zoom in and look for a blue sling again.

I got past the technical difficulties, and found myself on a ridge.  I looked back to Powell Peak.  So close, yet so far away!

This is what you'll find above the notch.  A pretty easy walk on talus.  Well easy compared to what was just climbed.  

You can see this continue towards the summit.
And the summit of McHenrys, what an oddity!  After all that difficulty it seems like you should get to a towering pinnacle with room for one cheek at the top with bald eagles circling all around, looking at you and thinking, "Jolly good show human.  You're pretty cool!".  But, like on Longs, there is a fairly flat and broad summit plateau.  I've read about the shock of encountering this from others, and they were right. 

Near the summit.

Very close to the summit, with great views of Longs, Keyboard of the Winds, Pagoda, Chiefs Head, and The Spearhead.  It's been awhile since I've visited Upper Glacier Gorge, and I've forgotten how beautiful it is.
For those of you who've followed this website for a few years, you may remember July 22nd is an important date to me.  This was the day in the year 2010 that a friend of mine lost a several year long battle with cancer.  On or around that day every year, I get to some place amazing and remember her.  This year that place was McHenrys Peak on July 25th.  I wrote a message to her in the register, and said a few words before continuing down.  Liberty, much love to you now and forever.

The Stone Man and Chiefs Head.
I had a few options from here.  My first plan for the day was to continue to Chiefs Head Peak, and then descend the probably very loose Chiefs Head/Spearhead Couloir, and then climb The Spearhead, one of the last two places I have to visit in Glacier Gorge.  But I wasn't able to get a clear view of the couloir from where I was during the day, and time was moving on.  It was now a bit after noon, and while the weather still looked good, I felt like I was taking a risk.  Thus I decided to descend into Glacier Gorge and stay high to ring around Frozen Lake and at least take a look at The Spearhead. 

At Frozen Lake.  One time when I was here, it was actually starting to freeze.
I looked to The Spearhead, and could see a party descending one of the non-technical routes to the top.  I felt maybe I should still go for it, but I was also playing a game with the weather.  Given the terrain and class 3-5 I would encounter on the route, I thought it might take me as long as an hour to get up and an hour to get down.  That would leave me exposed above treeline for quite awhile, as I still had to find the trail and get back down toward Black Lake.
A second thought was that even if there wasn't any lightning, any rain could certainly make the route much more difficult and treacherous.
I lounged in some sweet smelling grass and had a snack.  I really wanted to reach the top of The Spearhead, and I know some of the things that I write about on here will certainly seem risky or dangerous, but you never see the planning, training, and preparation that happens on the backside.
Thus, I relied on years of experience, years of looking at the sky seeing what happens in the future.  Years of observation and predicting what will happen in the next hour or two with the weather.  I was disappointed to head back to the trailhead, but I am not disappointed to have to make a return trip to Glacier Gorge. 

The Stone Man and the very difficult looking third class side of McHenrys.
In fact, I felt pretty upset.  I really want to finish up RMNP this year.  I am hoping to finish in early September when my parents will be visiting.  Though I only have ~50 things left to go, it seems unlikely that will happen.  Like I said earlier, I have a few things to visit that will take a whole day to get to for one or two destinations.  Case in point- this day!
I felt pretty down about this as I hiked back through Glacier Gorge.  But then I looked around and remembered where I was.

Longs, Keyboard of the Winds, and Pagoda Mountain.  Beauty, but notice the darkening skies behind.  Good decision made.
Why?  That's a question I ask myself sometimes.  Why do I do this?  There are alot of reasons, but I guess in the end most of those boil down to or add up to because it's fun and something that I really enjoy.  It's the way I recharge mentally.  It's a way I challenge myself physically and mentally to go farther and longer.  It's a way I see god (read more on my thoughts on god here).
And while I could drive to a closer trailhead to visit some of those singleton destinations, I've already planned what I think will be pretty fun and challenging days to do so.  In short, it's not about checking something off a stupid list, and I lost sight of that on this day.   

But this view, descending to Black Lake, certainly reminded me of the true why.  If I don't finish this year, it's not the end of the world.  Surely not, as I'll get to spend even more time in this place that I love so much.  Yes, I look forward to that last peak, and yes I would like my parents to be there.  But if that doesn't happen this year, it's ok.
On that note, as of this week I will now be working a four days on/three days off schedule.  I am relaxing today on one of my days off, and will have to do some errands on one of the other, but until the time they get here, I may be able to get two days a week out and about.  So maybe it will happen after all.  We shall see.
I started seeing some people at Black Lake, and passed maybe 20 on the way down.  I remember one couple in particular.  When I passed, the girl sarcastically (in my mind) remarked to the guy she was with that I looked like I was dressed to do a marathon.  By that time, I was getting close to mile 16, and had climbed 6 peaks and visited one alpine lake.  Not *quite* a marathon, but I'd also done over a mile of vertical gain, and climbed up to 5.3!   And I'm fully aware that the clothes I wear make me look like a total dork!
As Dan once said to me upon viewing my coincidentally completely tan ensemble, there are no dorks in the mountains. 

Here's the food I ate while hiking.  1780 calories, and close to five liters of water.  Plus a PB+J and chocolate soy milk on the way up, a head of romaine lettuce salad and three burritos for dinner, and ice cream for dessert when I got back home.
As I thought, this was a very fun and satisfying day.  It's always special to get to spend some quality time above treeline, do some fun and exposed scrambling, and visit those pristine lakes.  As for McHenrys Notch to McHenrys, I'd say it breaks down into a few sections.  Right out of the notch, you'll find some third to fourth class.  Then the first crux, a section of 5.3.  This comes to some wide ledges, which are third class, and then gets a bit more difficult again, with some fifth class moves to the top, where you find the wider third class talus ledges I took photos of above.  I've seen this called about 400 feet of climbing, but it's around 500 feet of total gain from the notch to the summit.  I'd suggest it's around 250 feet of actual climbing before you break out onto easier and flatter terrain.
As always, I'll give the disclaimer that this is dangerous, and not a good place to learn.  Just because you've done Longs doesn't mean that McHenrys via the notch is a good idea.  But if you have the experience and skill, this was certainly a fun climb!  I would be happy to repeat it in the future.
Link to hike map and GPX file on Caltopo.
McHenrys Notch via  Flattop Mountain (distances as part of the hike):
Flattop Mountain, 12324 feet: 4.6 miles, 2874 foot gain.  Second class.  Moderate+.
Hallett Peak, 12723 feet: 5.4 miles, 3263 foot gain.  Second class.  Moderate+.
Otis Peak, 12486 feet: 6.7 miles, 3036 foot gain.  Second class.  Moderate+.
Taylor Peak, 13153 feet: 8.5 miles, 3703 foot gain.  Second class.  Strenuous.
Powell Peak, 13298 feet: 10.25 miles, 3753 foot gain.  Second class.  Strenuous.
McHenrys Notch, 12820 feet: 10.5 miles, 3370 foot gain.  Third class.  Strenuous.
McHenrys Peak, 13327 feet: 10.8 miles, 3877 foot gain.  5.3.  Strenuous+.
Stone Man Pass, 12500 feet: 11.2 miles, 3050 foot gain.  Third class.  Strenuous.
Frozen Lake, 11580 feet: 12.25 miles, 2130 foot gain.  Second class.  Strenuous-.
Black Lake, 10620 feet: 13.6 miles, 1170 foot gain.  Moderate+.
Jewel Lake, 9940 feet: 15.4 miles, 490 foot gain.  Moderate.
Mills Lake, 9940 feet: 16 miles, 490 foot gain.  Moderate.
As a whole, this day covered 18.3 miles with 6460 feet of elevation gain and a maximum technical difficult of 5.3.  Strenuous+.

In loving memory of Liberty Rebekah Dagenais.  October 9, 1980- July 22, 2010.

Taylor Glacier, Powell Peak, Taylor Peak, Otis Peak, Hallett Peak, and Flattop Mountain.

The last time around, I'd written about one of the more difficult glacier/snow climbs in RMNP.  But, of course, there was one more on the list: Taylor Glacier.  Gerry Roach has called this "moderate my ass glacier", and I have seen estimates in the 50-55 degree range, though 60 seems to be most commonly agreed on.  Foster says 60 degrees, AI3.  Rossiter says steep snow, AI2.  The author of this report actually measured low 60's in the higher up sections, and 68 degrees near the top.  That is steep!

Again, I did as much online research as I could, and there are actually a few trip reports out there, and they seem to range the full gamut of human experience.   

This one, which my friend Gary was a part of, is more toward the "this was an awesome life affirming experience".  In this one, a very experienced climber talks about being happy they had a rope along, which they almost didn't bring.  This one calls it "the worst mistake I've ever made", and unreassuringly, starts with a short letter the climber had written his family while clinging to rock near the top.  This one describes a fall and near fatal injury.  And this one, a sobering reminder that it could happen to any of us, and that skill is no replacement for good judgement.

I went to bed planning on about three hours of sleep, but felt nervous about the day ahead and didn't sleep well.  I was up fifteen minutes before my alarm went off, and on the way to Estes earlier than planned.  

In Lyons I had the second oddest gas getting experience of my life, right behind the time the pump didn't shut off when my tank was full and gas was going everywhere.  Fortunately, I was able to get to Estes with what I had left and fill up there, but this took twenty minutes, and negated my earlier than intended start.

But soon enough I was at Glacier Gorge, and headed up, taking the Fire Trail shortcut.  I made good time to The Loch, where I was greeted by twilight.

Early, early morning.  I love this photo.
From The Loch on, I'd face some snow, and got out the microspikes.  They certainly helped on the steeper slopes around Timberline Falls.

Getting close to the falls.
True sunrise hit right as I got to Sky Pond.  Sometimes I hate getting up early on little sleep, but then I am reminded that it is worth it to get to see the very first light of the day from somewhere special.

First sun on Cathedral Spires.  Like seeing god.

I was able to get the first good views of the goal for the day, lurking at the back of the gorge.  And from this vantage point things didn't look so bad.  It's always hard to tell with snow, as I have seen steep things be flattened out, or look steeper than they are.
I stayed on microspikes as I walked on the apron of the glacier, stuff in the 20 degree range.  But it soon became clear that things were turning up, so I stopped to change into crampons, don a helmet, and get out an ice axe and an ice tool at around 11,500 feet.

Still looked pretty okay.  I'd take the right finish as described in the TR Gary was along on, and I could not see that from here.

Two days before, I'd looked down at this option, but the snow isn't continuous to the top, and the rock looked slightly loose.
I started up the glacier, getting into a rhythm of movement and breathing.  I felt like I was moving pretty well, and my tracker shows that in the first twenty minutes of the climb, I'd taken down about 500 feet.  Not bad. 

I found a small depression to rest in and take some layers off.  I was in direct sun, and the wind I'd encountered earlier on was completely gone for now.  What a beautiful view. 

Looking to the south, you can already see how steep things were at this point.  Looks like slightly more than 45 degrees.
I continued up, and travel slowed remarkably when the snow became firm enough that I couldn't kick steps in.  I had to use the other side of my ice axe to chop in some steps, which of course took alot of time. 

I was now clearly entering the steeper sections of the climb.  I started to get jimmy leg, and made my way right to some rock for a rest.  Since I am more comfortable on rock, I stayed on this for a bit, moving up slowly but surely.
Eventually I reached a place where I could not continue up on rock, and got onto a small snow platform to examine the options.

I had stopped for a snack at the rock band right of center on the way up.  It looked pretty far below now.

I was looking at this to continue up.  I was so close!  But this stretch was super steep, and I could see a near vertical headwall at the top.  I looked at the rock across from me, but it looked too slabby and not featured enough for my tastes.  I felt a down climb would be extremely dangerous.

Looking across from this platform.  Now things looked steep!
I geared up again, and moved out onto the snow carefully and purposefully.  The good news was that it had now softened up enough to allow me to kick steps directly in, and the movement was quicker.  At this point the snow was steep enough that my knee would hit the slope in front of me when I stood up on the step I just kicked in.
I got to the headwall, which was taller than me.  I started right, but then decided to look left.  That didn't look like a viable option, so right it was.  I put the axe in around a corner, and then the tool in over the top.  I pulled in, and got the right heel up to sink the crampon in.  Yes, I found myself mantling at the top of a 1,200 foot tall snow field!  One or two more hand movements, and I was on flat ground.  I was pretty happy to be there.

I inexpertly stitched three photos together to give this complete view from the top on down. 

Another shot of the headwall and the last section of climbing.  You can see the small platform I stopped at near the lower right hand corner.
While I climbed the first 500 feet in 20 minutes, it took me about an hour and forty minutes to cover the remaining 700 feet to the top.  An hour of the was spent on the final 400 feet alone.
This climb was definitely the hardest snow climb I've done to date, and I would say right at the limit for me.  I think having better/nicer boots and crampons would have made a difference, but the only way I will ever climb this again is with a partner and protection.
I cooled off some in the wind on the continental divide.  Powell Peak wasn't too far away, and I decided to go visit it again. 

Near the summit of Powell, with McHenrys center, Longs left, and Chiefs Head right.  I had packed pretty lightly, and needed to keep moving to stay warm with the wind.  This kind of sounds like an amateur mistake, but I know what I am capable of, and how fast I can move, and often trade comfort for less weight and the ability to move quicker.  Which of course, keeps me warm.
I broke one of my hiking poles on Powell.  This peak eats them, as last year I'd broken one of my previous pair on the same peak!

Looking back to Taylor.
From here I didn't know what to do.  I could descend Andrews Glacier again, but it was now getting pretty late (relatively) and I felt like the slope below the tarn is steep enough to slide.  And I was mentally done climbing snow!  That of course, left one option- traverse back to Flattop and take the trail.  Why not.  This would be a good period of exercise above treeline, and still get me home at a reasonable time.

I could see Lake Nanita and Nokoni from here, with Ptarmigan Mountain above.  Some fun times there.

Cathedral Spires from above, with the Mummy Range visible behind, and Sky Pond, Lake of Glass, and The Loch down in the gorge.

Getting close to the summit of Taylor Peak.  The second time I would stand on it in three days.

Taylor Glacier looks steep as insert swear word of your choice here.  You cannot see the exit I took, but you can see some of the stuff I climbed at the bottom middle of the photo.

The more mellow snow slopes of Andrews Glacier and Otis Peak behind.

Otis Peak again.  The long ramp up Taylor behind. 

Since it was all cloudy two days before when I climbed it, here is the top of Chaotic Glacier.  It looks steep for sure, but not as much as Taylor.

Down Chaos Canyon.

This sign probably once said something about danger and steep snow fields.  It has worn in a pretty unique and beautiful way. 

I made it to the top of Hallett, which provided the requisite great views in every direction.  I would certainly suggest Hallett as a great more difficult moderate hike. 

To the north.  The snow has melted significantly in the two weeks since I'd last been there. 
It was slow going down Flattop.  I wasn't motivated to really try, my knees were feeling it, and there was still a fair amount of snow below treeline, though it is melting quickly.  It was pretty wet overall.  I'd like to get back up there this week, but I think I'll wait until the snow is gone completely.  It took me about two hours to descend back to the Glacier Gorge th, which seems average.  I was really looking forward to getting back to the car!
What a day!  While I can certainly look back on some days that have pushed me to the limit mentally or physically, I think this was one that really pushed skills and equipment to the limit.  I was definitely a little freaked out once I got up high and looked around to see how steep everything was.  I did the best thing I could do for me, which was to just think about the options and examine where I was.
I would suggest Taylor Glacier to be one of the most difficult non technical snow climbs in RMNP.  This was definitely a step above Dragonstooth or Chaotic Glacier.  I would suggest AI2, as that grade equates to consistent 60 degree slopes, while AI3 suggests sustained 70 degree slopes, with even steeper sections.  I feel the top few hundred feet are definitely 60+ degrees, and depending on exactly what exit you take, you will likely have a few feet of near vertical climbing, as seen on the photos from higher up.
Of course, there are other thoughts out there, and I have linked to some of those reports.  But most of these TR's seem to indicate what I feel.  This is the real deal, people have died climbing this, and you must be prepared.  Absolutely do not head out to this glacier without a helmet, two ice tools, and good crampons and boots, my weakest link.  I would really suggest bringing and using protection.  But this is one persons opinion, and we all have our own comfort levels.   Decide on yours and climb on!
Taylor Glacier, Powell Peak, Taylor Peak, Otis Peak, Hallett Peak, and Flattop Mountain (distances as part of the hike):
Taylor Glacier, 11500-12700 feet: 4 miles to apron, 3520 foot gain to top.  1,200 feet of climbing on 60+ degree snow, AI2, fourth class.  Strenuous+.*
Powell Peak, 13208 feet: 5.5 miles, 4028 foot gain.  Second class.  Strenuous.
Taylor Peak, 13153 feet: 6.9 miles, 3973 foot gain.  Second class.  Strenuous. 
Otis Peak, 12486 feet: 8.4 miles, 3306 foot gain.  Second class.  Moderate+.
Hallett Peak, 12713 feet: 9.5 miles, 3533 foot gain.  Second class.  Moderate+.
Flattop Mountain, 12324 feet: 10.2 miles, 3144 foot gain.  Second class.  Moderate+.
As a whole, this hike covered approximately 14.8 miles with 5945 feet of elevation gain.  Strenuous. 
*I felt the rock I climbed was fourth class.  If you stay on snow all the way to the top, it'll be second class.  Again I will state that climbing Taylor Glacier requires special equipment and skill.  Do not attempt this climb unless you have both.