A better day in the mountains.

I have visited and revisited Mummy Mountain and Hagues Peak a number of times now.  These two have become a early season tradition of sorts, due to proximity to home, ease (or difficulty) of access, and at least one of the access options being pretty well traveled, with any snow well packed.  There might be a short stretch of snow around treeline, but the going is generally pretty clear and easy once you get to the enormous east slopes of Mummy, which don't hold much snow due to exposure.  It's also a good way to have a stretch above treeline and work hard.
Last year I had a heck of a time on these two, and not due to any difficulty.  I just was not in a good place mentally and very upset due to the very recent death of my dog.  It was a hard day all around.
This year I've generally been feeling good, and wanted to give it another go for the aforementioned reasons, as well as for perhaps some chance at a redemption of sorts.
Again, I planned to start and end at Lumpy Ridge, looking for a longer day and more elevation gain than last years route selection.  I was (not unusually) the first car in the parking lot at 530, and on the trail shortly after.  I resolved to run as much as possible this year, and to try to keep my mind and memories on a positive track.

It was easy at first, as I arrived just as the sun was starting to rise, and got to witness the alpenglow light show on the peaks to my south.
One of the major obstacles to any speed last year was the amount of dead fall on the Black Canyon Trail west of the intersection with the Dark Mountain Trail.  Fortunately, that was largely not an issue this year.  Maybe it wasn't as much of an issue as it felt like last year either, and it was all in my mind.

I was looking for it, and did manage to find the same exact rock out there on the trail.  I noticed its likeness to a heart shape last year, which lead to one of the many breakdowns as I thought about my pup who had died the day before.
As you near the apex of the trail, the terrain changes a bit, going from a heavily forested to a more open character.  You cross the Black Canyon Creek a few times, and I was able to fill up on water from it.

Close to breaking north to visit Mummy.
There is a pretty well put in social trail up here, which leads from the trail up to the east face of Mummy.  I've found it several times, but missed it this year and eventually went for it, deciding I was past it.  Thus, the initial gain was a bit more difficult, with some bushwhacking and maneuvering to avoid the little snow there was.
And how little snow there was; this year is the driest I've ever seen it around this time of the year.

Looking up at Fairchild Mountain and the Crystal Lake basin from the climb.

And up the east face of Mummy- no snow!  Not that the climb was any easier.

I finally reached the summit and looked across to Hagues.  Some years there's been enough snow that I haven't visited Hagues at all, this year...

Largely clear sailing.  I don't think I stepped in snow once, as it was all avoidable.  I was able to stop and refill water between the two from a melt pool, the good thing about doing these ridge traverses in the early part of the year. 

Hagues brought the usual good views, though I actually found a better approach by staying down and north of the ridge a bit.  The air was still, and I met the ravens who must live in the area at the summit.  It was pretty neat to actually be able to hear them flying, the air rushing around their wings and bodies. 

I was equally surprised to look north and see Rowe Glacier Lake and area were largely clear- or at least the snow could be avoidable.
I made a decision here, which was to not go back the way I came, but head east out to the Dunraven ridge, and then descend down the Husted Trail to North Boundary, and then take that south over the few lumps in the way.

Looking out to the Dunraven Ridge, some rock at first and then smooth sailing on tundra.

The dramatic east face of Gibraltar Mountain.
I found running water in this area and filled up yet again, as the next definite place I'd be able to fill up was at West Creek, and definitely a good bit away from where I was.  And as it was pretty warm, I'd need every drop.

The undramatic Mount Dunraven.

The last time I'd see water for awhile.
The excursion out to Mount Dickinson went without issue, and I saw several herds of elk along the way.  I briefly headed back west from the summit and then dropped south, following occasional cairns.

Due to the 2010 Cow Creek fire, there is a ton of dead fall along the way.  Up until now, I'd only done this in winter and it was alot easier with the snow covering everything.  Travel was pretty tedious until I reached the still living portion of the forest and got on a good trail.
At North Boundary, I turned south and was able to find water almost immediately.  Great, because I'd been out for at least half an hour already despite the fill up near Dunraven.  There was a RMNP trail crew out, and I made sure to thank them all for their hard work.
I jogged and actually ran some of the fun downhill to West Creek, crossed it, and started up the steepish climb on the other side.  It's only about 500 feet of gain, but it always feels worse, particularly this late on a big day.
I took the Cow Creek trail west, and realized I'd forgotten how long it takes to get to the Gem Lake trail, but it came soon enough.  And now for the final 1000 feet of vertical.  There are some steep parts here, but I was able to keep a high pace and power hike most of it.
I arrived at a peacefully deserted Gem Lake.  I expected to see a ton of people there, even though it was now around 530 at night. 

Low wind led to a nice reflection.

I passed several people heading up and a few on their way back down to the parking, jogging as much as I could.  I got back to the car at 5:51 pm, a 12:20 day.  It's always nice to change into some street clothes, and I've recently started taking along a thermos of ice to enjoy a cold coconut water on the way home.  

In last years outing, I compared my effort to previous efforts on these peaks.  It's not a direct comparison of course, as this years' effort included about 5 more miles and 1200 more feet of gain in much more bushwhacky and deadfally terrain from Dickinson than if I'd just visited Mummy and Hagues and went back the same way.  I was about 12 seconds per mile faster than I was last year; certainly not alot of time, but with the above difficulties added in, I'm happy with that.

Link to hike map/GPX on Caltopo.

A better day in the mountains:

Mummy Mountain, 13425 feet: 10.74 miles, 5560 foot gain.  Second class.  Strenuous+.

Hagues Peak, 13560 feet: 12.53 miles, 5695 foot gain.  Second class.  Strenuous+.

Mount Dunraven, 12571 feet: 14.88 miles, 4706 foot gain.  Second class.  Strenuous.

"Dundicking", 12312 feet: 15.78 miles, 4447 foot gain.  Second class.  Strenuous.

Mount Dickinson, 11831 feet: 17.57 miles, 3966 foot gain.  Second class.  Strenuous.

As a whole, this day covered 30.02 miles with 8558 feet of elevation gain.  The main difficulty in my mind is the time spent above treeline.  Strenuous+.

In loving memory of Jersey the dog.

Number 200- "Dundicking" via Cow Creek TH.

11//3/14- Please note the RMNP trail crews have been hard at work over the summer, and the bridges I'd described as missing have now been repaired.  The trails are in much better shape as well!
This one should have happened much earlier, but so is life.  I vividly remember walking within fifty feet of this high point and Dan saying, "Hey, maybe we should check this out."  But it was obvious we hadn't lost and regained the kind of elevation needed to summit Mount Dunraven, so we walked right on by it.  It was only later, when looking at 14ers and LOJ, that we discovered the only ranked peak on the ridge was the unofficially named Dundicking, and this was what we'd walked right by.  This is another one of those destinations that wasn't mentioned at all in the guide book I'd been working from.  A return trip was in order....

Sunrise in the mountains.  

No better place to be!  With a view like this I already had a good feeling about the day ahead.

To get to this trail head, take a right on MacGregor Avenue off of 34 (immediately past the Stanley).  Continue on as this becomes Devils Gulch Road.  After a few miles, bear left onto McGraw Ranch Road.  Continue on this until you come to McGraw Ranch on your left.  The parking area is indicated by signs on the left side of the road.  I imagine it is a bit busier in the summer since the trail to Bridal Veil Falls starts from here.
Follow the signs to get on the North Boundary Trail.  The flood has damaged the trail somewhat, deeply rutting parts of it up until the top.  However, it is easy to follow and navigate.  Once you gain the saddle, there is about 600 feet of loss down to West Creek.  There is one section of this part of the trail that was damaged quite heavily, in fact now has a bit of water flowing down it.

 

Looking up at that section.
The bridge over the creek is gone.  There were a few rocks in place that afforded me a relatively okay crossing.  I added a few more on the way back to hopefully help ease the way for anyone else.  The trail is damaged up to gone in some places on the other side where it runs close to the creek.
You'll gain some altitude before loosing some altitude.  Soon you will come to the long lost Husted Trail.  I'd posted about it previously, and it was reading Chris Roberts' blog that led me to do some research on this trail and find it a viable option to ascend up into the West Creek Research Area.
You'll cross a small possible seasonally wet drainage, and then look for this large, flat boulder on the west side of the trail.  There is a cairn on top of it.  

Head west here and you'll be able to find the Husted Trail.

I am not sure when it was last maintained- next time I am in the park I will see if I can find out.  I know it appears on the 1961 version of the USGS map, but not the 1987 version of the same.

Here is a screen capture of the 1961 map and you can clearly see the trail.

Of course it can now be a little difficult to find at times.  But I must say that for the few miles you are on it and the 1000 feet or so of gain it will bring you, it is a pretty awesome trail.  Very pleasant hiking and beautiful scenery.

Such as this!  Mount Dickinson will come into view pretty early on, and just as when approached from the Dunraven TH, it looks very, very far away.
Eventually the trail will enter the West Creek fire area and become less distinct.  There are some cairns that will show you the general way, but you just need to continue west towards the high point that is directly in front of you. 

All that's left of one of the victims of the fire.

Looking to the south as altitude is gained.

This is the slope you'll head up and contour north around before heading directly up the south side of Dickinson.  Tree graveyard.

From here, the rocky points on top of the ridge line beacon you forward.  They are neat to visit, but the true high point lies to their west, so aim to the left of them if you want to head more directly to the summit.

I'd seen some intermittent snow as I gained altitude on the way up, but with no needles on any of the trees to provide shade, the vast majority had melted and it wasn't bad at all.  I'd cursed carrying along snow shoes the whole time.  But now I was glad to have them, as postholing was frequent and deep.

Looking east along the ridge.  The wind predictions said gusts up to mid 30's.  I'd say it was sustained in mid 40's as I was having trouble standing up and heading in the direction I wanted to.  Walking in wind like that always makes me think of this scene from Fear and Loathing

because the stumbling that ensues makes me feel like the village drunkard in an early Irish novel.
I crouched atop Mount Dickinson for the second time, and found the summit register wet.  Ah well.  I was on top of it at one hour before my hard turn around time, and I was well ahead of the pace I'd set in January.  Amazing what less snow will do for you.  Onwards!

With the wind coming from the south, I found some solace on the northern side of the ridge. 

More snow, though it was hard pack here and was able to support my weight.  Interestingly enough, I did notice some boot prints here from one or more individuals who are as demented as I am.  If you happen to read this, we should meet up for a hike sometime. 

Beautiful wispy clouds, wind roaring. 

 

And then I was there.  I wasn't going to pass it by this time!  The high point is on the left.  It looked like there had been a glass jar acting as a register, but it was broken and no paper was to be found. 

Looking back to Dickinson.

And west to Dunraven and other peaks in the Mummy Range.

North to Sugarloaf Mountain and Stormy Peaks.
It was a great feeling to carefully sit on top of my 200th named destination in the park!  I shot a short video but it ended up being so windy you can't hear what I'm saying so that will remain in the vault.  But I did just want to give a thanks to you for reading, to my wife for her support (and sorry for the undue worry all these long days give you), to my friend and often companion Dan for his company, and to my family and friends for being awesome.
It was time to head back.

I started to loose elevation almost immediately, for I saw no reason to stay high.  I aimed for the top of the slope you climb when the Husted Trail ends.

A brief lull in wind and a different view of Mummy Mountain.
I located my snowshoe tracks and followed them back to the cairned trail.  I found myself wandering at times until it got back to the trees and became easier to follow once again. 

 

Pretty good hiking on the way down as well.  I ran out of water somewhere around here and decided to fill my Camelback with snow.  Though less than ideal, this melted enough to get me back to the car.

As this never seems to happen, the trail goes right by the small seasonal drainage that you cross on the North Boundary trail, and you can see precisely where it starts.  Here is the small trickle that comes from nowhere to form that little creek.
Back at the North Boundary Trail, there was just one final obstacle to conquer: the final 600 feet of gain between West Creek and the trail head.  Last time this really killed me.  I hadn't eaten enough during the day and was bonking super hard.  This time I made sure to eat well throughout the day.

While it still wasn't fun, I made it up much easier and quicker than last time.  I got back to the car eleven and a half hours after I'd started.  What a day!
This was a pretty difficult day, but certainly right up my alley.  I love the minor peaks of the park.  I love being off the beaten path.  Hiking the Husted Trail was one of those small pleasures in life- I hope to make a return to it at some point this year.  From start to finish, I didn't see a single person.  It was a good and much needed day of mental recharge. 
Here is a link to a map I made on Caltopo.  While an estimate, this is probably pretty close to the reality.  Though you only end up at 12312, this hike gains more elevation than Longs Peak, and more than the highest gain standard route in the park- Chiefs Head Peak at 5239 feet from Sandbeach Lake.  In fact, I think my previous outing to this ridge from Dunraven TH was my highest gain day ever, at just under 5700 feet. 
If you want a day of solitude and desire to hit some of the minor peaks in the park, add this one to your list for the summer.
Dundicking via Cow Creek Th:
15.3 miles round trip, 5785 feet gross elevation gain.  Second class.  Strenuous.

Mounts Dickinson, Dunraven, and the lakes of the North Fork River gorge.

From far, far away.
This was one of those very special days, with alot of time spent above treeline, visiting destinations that are so far in they don't get much traffic.
We started our day in Lyons at 5.  The drive up was mellow, with little traffic as you might imagine.  We made it all the way to the North Fork trail head in only 45 minutes or so, spent a few minutes getting ready there, and were on the trail shortly before 6.
I have to recommend you follow the signed trail, as we stayed on the road and accidentally trespassed. 

It seemed like we were making good time, but we were amazed when we stopped for our first snack break shortly after crossing into RMNP from Comanche Peak Wilderness and it was a few minutes after 7.  We were able to maintain a pretty high speed throughout the day.
We got to the Happily Lost campsite.  From here on we shall be happily lost, the world of work and life's demands behind us.  When we hit the creek, we spied a nice thick tree to provide safe crossing slightly upstream from us.

On the other side of the creek, we started the bushwhack up and saw this toilet.  I guess the privy which is now on the north side of the creek, was at one time, and more than several years ago, on the south side.  Unfortunately, I did not have anything to add for posterity at this point of the day.

And up, up, up we went, winding our way through the thick forest.  Over and around dead fall, through knee height brush, over slippery and mossy rock.  We hit a ridge, and stayed west of it at first.  Then we sighted some clearer ground to the east and went toward that.  The going definitely got easier as we approached tree line.

Everything was wet and the day was relatively humid, perhaps contributing to the hazy appearance of some of the surrounding areas.

We broke tree line and continued on.  This part of the hike is relatively steep, gaining approximately 2200 feet in maybe 1.25 miles from the campsite to the summit. 

And then we were there, 11831 feet.  Less than four hours to go 7.8 miles and gain 3931 feet.  Not bad.  Looking west towards Dunraven and the Mummy Range.  We talked about some goals for the next year.  Dan's is to run a 50 mile race.  Crazy!  Mine is to go higher.

And back east to nothing and everything else.

Longs Peak and friends cavorting to the south.  The weather was great today, and I am guessing it saw a fair amount of activity.  Even counting the two separate groups of 8 trail workers (a big thank you guys and girls!) , we saw about 25 people throughout the day.

A Bob Rossian cloud hangs over the West Creek Research Natural Area.
From here it's 2.2 miles and 700 feet to Dunraven, but you do loose about 160 feet, then gain back 600, then loose 300 before gaining the final 570ish to the summit.

Low but nonthreatening looking clouds continued to play with the landscape. 

Mummy Mountain briefly obscured. 

Back along the ridge from whence we came. 

Unfortunately, there was no writing implement in the register atop Dunraven, and neither of us had one along. Unblemished by my hand, but we were there.

Looking back a little bit closer.

Blue skies forever.

On the top of Dunraven in one hour more, 12571 feet, photo courtesy Dan Regelson.

And a non-posed photo, also courtesy Dan Regelson.  Though that cloud is suspiciously perfectly situated...

Our next goal for the day was Scotch Lake, high in the North Fork River drainage.  In looking at the map, we determined that we could head directly toward it rather than descend.  From the topo, the slope to the south of the lake looked a little steep to descend.  We aimed for the snowfields pictured towards the base of Gibraltar Mountain, figuring this would allow us some flexibility to choose an appropriate route down.

And that strategy worked, as we were able to pick a way down talus and tundra to arrive slightly below the lake. 

Both of the registers on the peaks led us to believe they get 10-15 ascents per year.  It seems quite likely that these lakes see only that amount of traffic as well.

Scotch Lake, again thanks to Dan. 

Looking down to Whiskey Lake.  With names like these, I was getting quite thirsty. 

Whiskey Lake with Gibraltar Mountain and Middle No Name above.  I am excited to stand atop those peaks and look down.

Farther down we hit Lake Dunraven.  From here we decided to hit Lake Louise.  It looked like we might be able to contour around, but a rock face seemed to block that.  We went over the rock face, and with the help of a game trail, were able to descend to Lake Louise fairly quickly.

East from Lake Dunraven.

Arriving at Lake Louise.

We were walking down from here to Lake Husted, and happened to turn back.  Wow!

One of the small, unnamed ponds below Lake Dunraven and Lake Louise.

Lake Husted was going to be the one.  For years of hiking I've wanted to swim in a high altitude lake.  Last year I attempted Eagle Lake only getting knee deep before my feet lost feeling and I wimped out.  I knew I had to find a lake which I could just jump in.  Unfortunately, this one looked pretty shallow and would require a good bit of wading to get to the deep part.

Onward to Lost Lake.  This was the one.

Mount Dickinson seen from below.

And Mount Dunraven.

 This was it, the line that divides mice from men. 

 It was pretty cold, but very refreshing.  I felt better throughout the hike having washed off the days sweat.

But still pretty cold!
We took a nice long rest here, refueled, talked.  Ready for the 9.7 miles back to the truck, we set out.

A must visit in my opinion.
The with the gain/loss coming over such a long distance, the down part isn't too bad either.  The cliffs to the north looked pretty cool, but just when we were in a bit of a clearing and I pulled out my camera, Dan waved me on, pointing back.  Moose!  Maybe 20 feet away, a cow.  No babies in sight, and fortunately she was occupied with eating.  Much less scary than my last moose encounter, but still a reminder that this is their home and we just share it.  And that moose are huge animals!
We got back to the truck right at 445pm, giving us just under eleven hours to do 24ish miles and 5700ish feet of total gain.  Again, not bad, and the longest hike either of us have done separately or together, though we've both had 20 milers or so. 
If you know me at all, you know I live for days like this.  I relish being in the middle of nowhere, seeing no one other than ourselves.  This is the best place for reflection, admission, honesty.  It is a privilege to set foot on a peak that might see only nine other people in a year.  It is humbling to kneel at a lake, put a hand in the water at 11620 feet.
I am already looking forward to my days off next week, anxiously checking the weather.  This is where I go, what I do, and what I love!
Mounts Dickinson, Dunraven, and the lakes of the North Fork River gorge:
Mount Dickinson: 7.8 miles one way, 3931 foot gain (7900-11831).  Strenuous-.
Mount Dunraven: 10.1 miles one way, 4671 foot gain (7900-12571).  Strenuous.
'Scotch Lake': 11.7 miles one way (from Dunraven th), 3720 foot gain (7900-11620).  Strenuous-.
'Whiskey Lake': 11.5 miles one way, 3640 foot gain (7900-11540).  Strenuous-.
Lake Dunraven: 11.1 miles one way, 3360 foot gain (7900-11260).  Strenuous-.
Lake Louise: 10.9 miles one way, 3120 foot gain (7900-11020).  Strenuous-.
Lake Husted: 10.4 miles one way, 3188 foot gain (7900-11088).  Strenuous-.
Lost Lake: 9.7 miles one way, 2814 foot gain (7900-10714). Moderate+.