Showing posts with label indian peaks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label indian peaks. Show all posts

Thursday, September 12, 2019

Apache Peak, Mount George, and Iroquois aka The Bicuspid Traverse.

Though I like my work schedule, having three weekdays off isn't the best for meeting up with and seeing friends who also enjoy being outside, but have more traditional weekends.  It's an occasional pleasure to see them, though it often means them or me taking a day off to meet up.
We got lucky on Labor Day- I happened to have off because it's Monday, one of my normal days off, and most normal people have off for the holiday.  The weather looked great, if anything a little warm for this time of year.
After throwing a few suggestions back and forth, we decided on taking the east ledges route of Apache Peak to the summit, then follow the west ridge to the curiously white person named Mount George, and finally Iroquois.  
I'd join with prolific peak baggers Dave Johnson and Mike Offerman for a day that absolutely promised fun and adventure!
The first adventure was meeting up.  I met Mike at the Walmart in Longmont and we carpooled from there.  I suggested that we meet with Dave at the pullout right before the Brainard pay station, unfortunately neither of them had been to the area in awhile, and didn't know this lot even existed.
We could get intermittent cell service, and tried to text Dave, but they didn't go through of course.  So we went down Brainard Lake Road and found him before heading back to the parking and switching cars as Dave has a pass.  Phew!  Lesson learned to either be more clear in the first place or maybe just give a GPS point.
We made it to a pretty full Long Lake TH, got our stuff ready, and started up.
Early morning.
We passed a number of people, though most were pretty close to the trail head.  The only one we passed a little higher up was a lady who was hiking to Isabelle Glacier.  She asked how far it was, and though all of us had been there before, it had been awhile, and I guess distance is an abstract thing really.
Dave told her half a mile, but soon enough it became pretty apparent that it was longer than that.  It became our joke for the rest of the day that it was only half a mile to anything.
She caught us later when we stopped for a break.  Dave apologized, and she asked if the small snowfield near us was the glacier.  We said no.  She asked if it looked alot different, and we said no, just larger.  It sounded like that was enough for her; she took some photos and seemed to indicate she was satisfied with seeing only this small snow field left over from the harsh winter.
Our route was finally coming into view.  As on my last time up Apache, everything ahead looked hard, and I'd thought our ascent route was somewhere to the north of the peak.  I was mistaken, the east ledges are actually south of the summit.  There are alot of small moraines there, and Dave and I enjoying coming up with farcical names for them: "The Neverending Moraine" "Rick Moraine-us".  Mike was a little ahead of us, probably sick of our chatter!
Dave and myself crossing a low snowfield, no traction needed.  Photo by Mike Offerman.
On the ledges.  Photo by Mike Offerman.
The route really wasn't bad at all, I guess just barely third class in places, with some easy slab climbing.  Most of the difficulty was really annoyance- the loose talus and scree to the top.
Nearing the summit of Apache Peak, 13441 feet.
Shoshoni Peak is the closest but lower point, Mount Audubon is higher but farther away.  Lots of looseish rock.
We got to the summit soon after this was taken.  Great views abound in every direction. We signed into the register, had a quick snack, and the onwards!
The descent off the summit was more of the same rocky stuff for a few hundred feet before the real fun begins.  We were doing part of a known route, but one that isn't often repeated.  We didn't know how the route finding would be, or exactly what the terrain would be like.
The initial descent.
Looking over to the eventual goal, hard to really pick out amongst all the other rocky stuff.
Per the map, it's only a mile from Apache to Iroquois.  But it's a long mile.  We generally stayed up pretty high on the ridge, which may not have been the most efficient route, but it was certainly very fun, with great scrambling.
Mike going around a corner.
Atop and around Fair Glacier.  Photo by Dave Johnson, who kept saying how crazy Mike was.
Dave in a compromising position himself.
We got past Mount George, the curiously white person named summit in Indian Peaks, and then doubled back to get to the top.  Mike went around to the south side, Dave started around to the north side, and I shrugged and went directly up the face in front of me.  It looked like there were enough hand and footholds to just go for it and it worked!
I walked over to the summit, and was disappointed to see the broken glass register.  All the work to get to this unranked peak, and I couldn't even let anyone know I was there!
Another look revealed a smaller register.  The paper inside had been there for over twenty years, and even counting the three of us that day, averaged less than one sign in per year during that time.  Pretty cool!
Dave planking on the summit. 
Mike near the top.
The down climb off Mount George.  Fourth class I guess?  Photo by Dave.
We continued northwestish from here, with more fun and engaging route finding and scrambling.
Descending toward Iroquois.  Photo by Mike Offerman.
Mike took this one as well-great to see the colors of fall popping.
With all the moisture this year, the tundra has stayed a pretty vibrant green for much longer than normal.  Ironically, I told myself that I'd take a photo of this on the way back.
We took a short snack break here, with Iroquois (the point to the left of Dave) not far off in the distance. 
Another view, Hopi on the left, Iroquois on the right.
Dave getting close to Iroquois.  Photo by Mike Offerman.
Lost Tribe Lakes and my finger.
Dave and Mike got going from the break a little bit quicker than me.  We commented on how great the day was several times.  If anything, it was almost too warm though the predicted wind never really came to fruition.
I was on some of the easiest non trail terrain of the day, walking about fifty feet behind them, when I fell.  I've slipped/tripped/had something move under my feet and fallen plenty of times out there.  The most it's ever cost me has been some skin and blood, maybe a broken section of hiking pole.
I'm not even sure how I fell.  It was so quick.  I was just walking along on large talus, and all of the sudden in the air.  I think I fell to my right first, bumped something, and then went left.  The thing I landed on was slightly lower than my feet, so I fell from slightly greater than standing height.
I put my hands up of course.  My left palm impacted a rock and I heard a sickening crack come from it.  I felt immediate and intense pain, and saw a small but obvious deformity at my left wrist.  The bone wasn't protruding fortunately, but my first thought:
"It definitely didn't look like that this morning."
I'd never broken a bone before, but knew immediately that was what happened.  I got up, holding everything in place with my right hand, and called to the guys ahead.  They came back and had me sit right away, then lay back when I said my ears were ringing so intensely I could barely hear them.  I don't think I hit my head, or anything else really, just a few scrapes here and there.
We were able to get my pack off, and get my emergency kit out.  I took a Naproxin right away, then used the little bit of tape I had to affix some of Dave's spare clothing in the hopes it would help provide some support.
We sat and discussed what to do.  I immediately appealed to them to both go to the summit while I waited.  We were that close after all.  Dave said he thought I shouldn't be alone, but I said I could use the emergency whistle and had a line of sight to them for most of the time they'd be gone.  Frankly, I didn't want to wait for them to go one at a time.  I was already counting the minutes until I'd be back home.
We thought about dropping down to Lost Tribe Lakes, and then the Arapaho Pass Trail, and take that to Monarch Lake.  Of course from there it's close to three hours back to my house, and we didn't have a vehicle there or anyone to call really, so that plan didn't really work.
"Don't you still want to do Iroquois?" Dave asked.
I think I answered with an expletive.  We were so close... and I'd have to come all the way back... more expletives... "Let's go, come back here, and evaluate." 
We left our packs to lighten the load, though I brought my Inreach just in case.  Thus, I likely earned the dubious title of the first person to break a bone enroute to Iroquois, still summit, and then hike all the way back out.
Mike on top (by Dave).
Dave on top (by Mike).
Me on top (by Dave)?
Hell no, I didn't even try.  I just touched the top from standing and called it good.
Mike got out one of his hiking poles for me, with the idea that it would give me more balance.  I definitely didn't want to fall again!
We slowly made our way back to our packs.  We sat again and talked about what to do.  I had serious doubts in my ability to go back the way we'd come- some of it was hard enough with two hands on the way out.  But we all agreed that from where we were that going back on a known route was the best way out.
We stayed down off the ridge, largely finding easier terrain there, though still with a few third class cruxes.  Even more fun one handed!
Headed back through the business.  Photo by Dave.
Mike generally stayed in front, finding the easiest possible route through for me, while Dave stayed behind me, carrying my pack in his, and just making sure I was okay.  I was so fortunate to have them with me, as this would've all been much more difficult if I had been alone.
Mike looking back at us.
In some places where I did need a fourth point of contact, I'd use my left elbow.  I guess it worked.  It felt like it took forever, but we eventually got back close to Apache.  I was so looking forward to the easier movement of the trail, but first we'd need to go back down the loose scree and stuff we'd come up that morning.
That was some of the worst- of course the tendency is to flail ones arms when a foot slips (which happened more than once).  That simple act was extremely painful.  I butt slid some of the looser stuff, afraid of falling.  But we got down, finally getting back to the trail around 430 pm, about 4:15 after the fall and break.
It felt better if I kept my arm down, so I did.  I was feeling ok I guess- dehydrated as I definitely didn't drink enough, but the pain was at a dull roar.  It was nice to be on actual trail and feel like we were making good time.
I love dogs as much as the next person, and probably more than most people, but the few people we encountered with off leash dogs (though it is well signed at all trail heads that they have to be on leash, and dogs are required to be on leash in any wilderness area) were of maximum annoyance.  Not that the dogs were "bad", but I was really tempted to kick the one who stopped in the middle of the already narrow trail, and didn't move.  I guess the owner thought that was endearing; I was ready to drown that fucker in the creek (maybe just the broken arm speaking).  If one had jumped on me, I would've yelled at someone like I've never yelled at someone before.
Put and keep your dogs on a leash while in Indian Peaks Wilderness area, where they are required to be on a leash as signed.
We got to Long Lake, which felt extra long, and the tape around my wrist fell off.  I would've taken it off soon enough anyway, but ugh.  Looking at my arm with an extra bend where its supposed to be straight, plus the swelling... looked a little bit ugly.
We got back to the trail head at 6:16, nearly 7 hours after the fall.  It felt like forever.  We got back to Mike's truck, and he got me back to Walmart.  My car is manual, but fortunately it was my left hand only that was unusable.
I headed back to my house first.  I wanted to let my dogs out quickly, though I had a friend come by that afternoon, they'd been alone for quite awhile by now.  I also did some quick research-urgent care is really more appropriate for this type of injury, but they were all either closed already, or about to close.  So I headed to the local ER.
I had to sit for awhile- I know better than most what can happen there, and though I was in pain, I did not have a life threatening emergency.  So I got checked in, got vitals taken, eventually got a few xrays shot, and waited patiently.
The guy in the "room" next to me was not waiting patiently, and had already requested and been given Morphine (!) because... he broke his pinky!  I didn't want narcotics there, as I had to drive myself home, but come on.  I know everyone has different pain thresholds, but it was rather entertaining to know I'd hiked out 7 hours, and then driven another 1.5 to get here, and got to enjoy the sights of my mangled arm while he complained about how it was taking too long and how his pinky hurt.
I called my wife, who was inconveniently out of town, to let her know what happened.  My first ever broken bone at 38, and my first real out there accident.
I broke the Radius.
Even though I got there after the guy I was next to, and got xrayed and the results from after he did, patience paid off.  He kept pushing his button and not so subtly hinting to the hospital staff that answered his call that he felt like he was there for too long.  As he was doing that (again), someone came in, splinted me, gave me a prescription, and sent me on my way.
I made an appointment the next day with a Orthopedic Surgeon.  I saw them a few days later and they were able to get the break set and splinted in a bigger splint to limit mobility. My follow up is tomorrow, and as long as everything has stayed in place, surgery will not be needed.
Yep, I'm definitely all right.
I've been thinking alot about this day.  It's disappointing in alot of ways- the race I spent most of the year training for was in less than two weeks from the day this happened.  At first, I still had designs on going, but I effectively can't use my left hand at all, and while I think I could deal with the pain, lugging around this huge splint wouldn't work.  Oh well, it'll be there next year.
I hope once I'm in a real cast it's lighter and thinner, so I can still get out and enjoy some of the fall hiking season.
But people die up there.  Though it's a stupid fall, it would've been alot worse with a much more serious injury if I'd fallen in any of the harder stuff.  Though it was painful, I was able to ultimately get out under my own power, though not without assistance from Mike and Dave.  I was lucky to be with two people who have alot of outdoor experience, and who were able to get me out safely.  I can never thank you guys enough.
So what went wrong, or is there anything I/we could've done better?  Some accidents are preventable, some happen due to an obvious error on the part of the victim, and some just happen.  I think mine falls into the last category.
I don't know that I could've done anything to prevent the fall.  I am no stranger to the terrain we were on when it happened, and know how to move there.  Maybe if I'd been using my poles, they would've provided more balance or I might have gotten the left one under me as I started to fall and caught myself, who knows.
I should've been carrying more tape- that might've made a difference in comfort or support.  The amount I usually go with is enough for blisters and the like, but definitely not enough for a more serious injury.
I think sitting and discussing what to do was the correct way to go.  My first thought was to use my Inreach to call for help, but for where we were, it probably would've taken as long for someone to get to us as it did for us to get out.  It was pretty windy, so I'm not sure if a helicopter would've been able to fly; nor did I really need one (though it would've made that hard terrain on the way back ALOT easier!).
On the map, I've included our possible routes out, plus range rings at quarter mile increments.  The route we took was to the closest trail in our area, with Crater Lake being just slightly farther away, though much more difficult to get to.  In hindsight, Dave also suggested that we should've went down and then up and east to the Fourth of July Trail.  But in looking at the map, I'm sure we went the best way.  Plus, that trail head would still have left us at least thirty minutes from the cars at Brainard Lake.
So on a day when something went majorly wrong, alot of things went right.  It sucks to skip the race, but a fall at 12500 feet could've been alot worse.  If I ever do get to ride in a helicopter, I hope it's under my terms, and because I want to, not because I need to.
Link to hike map on Caltopo.
The Bicuspid Traverse (Dave's name):
Apache Peak, 13441 feet (via East Ledges): 5.7 miles, 2941 foot gain.  Third class.  Moderate+.
Mount George, 12876 feet: 6.9 miles, 2376 foot gain.  Fourth class.  Strenuous-.
Iroquois, 12799 feet: 8.1 miles, 2299 foot gain.  Third class.  Strenuous-.
As a whole, this day covered 15.67 miles with 5008 feet of elevation gain in up to fourth class terrain.  Extensive route finding is needed.  Strenuous.

Wednesday, November 22, 2017

Red Deer, Sawtooth, Algonquin, and Coney Island from Beaver Reservoir TH.

There is something to be said for sitting down and reviewing summer hike photos three months later.  I think this is the last of my overdue trip reports.  Though these peaks are all summitted from the same trail head, the days described took place about a month apart, on August 15th and September 21st this year.  Thus, they are described as two separate outings in this TR, though they could easily be grouped together.  Also described is my Boulder County and Indian Peaks Wilderness finisher, both fun lists to pursue.
I'd never been to the trail head before, but it was pretty easy to find.  It's on the Peak to Peak Highway between Route 7 and Ward, though closer to Ward.  The street sign is for County Road 96, and you should see a sign for the Tahosa Boy Scout Camp.  It's on the west side of Peak to Peak.
Drive along the dirt road, and go about halfway around the reservoir to find a small parking area on your right, a little past the wide concrete paved area.  There is some additional parking just a short way up the dirt road, and it looks like most vehicles should be able to make it though I didn't try in my normal car.  Note that the reservoir itself (and immediately surrounding land) is private property, and signed as such.
The first few miles of hiking aren't the most mentally stimulating, on the 4WD Coney Creek Road.  But soon enough (on the way up, it feels like it takes forever on the way down) you'll reach the Coney Creek TH.  Stick to the boardwalk on your left to cross the wide creek.  Things are a little confusing here, as the area is pretty open.  Continue ahead and to the left to find the trail. 
Early morning and the promise of a fun day ahead.
And a fun day it would be, as I was in Indian Peaks where dogs are allowed and my best dog friend was along with me.  His is a story of triumph, as he was such a scared dog when we got him.  I distinctly remember them telling us he might never be able to go on a hike.  But he's showed them!
You can just barely see Sawtooth Mountain poking up beyond the trees here.
We passed the Coney Lake trail pretty early on, and continued on the Beaver Creek trail to the Buchanan Pass trail.
Beauty!
As we got to treeline, movement seemed a bit more difficult to me, though it didn't seem like Gunner was slowing down at all.  
Looking back down into the valley.
I could hear the wind roaring above, so we stopped for a snack and water break on the east side of the Continental Divide.
Gunner looking extremely happy!
We crested the divide and it was windy and therefore a good bit cooler.  I put on my wind/rain jacket, and figured out a way to tie/zip my fleece hoodie onto Gunner as he now looked a bit less happy.  We headed north and got to the summit of Red Deer Mountain quickly.
Looking around from the summit, where there is a nice depression to allow some time out of the wind.
Dog impressively back lit on the summit of Red Deer Mountain, 12391 feet.
My buddy!
We looked over to Sawtooth Mountain.  From points west, its easy to see how it got that name, but from here it looked like just a lump on the tundra.
Sawtooth Mountain on the left, with Algonquin and others behind.
It was a little bit of talus to the top, but it comes easily enough for a dog.  I felt like I was sucking wind. 
Audubon and Paiute in the background with Algonquin ahead.  That grassy ramp cutting left was my planned descent route. 
Still happy on Sawtooth.
Algonquin is the highest of these three at 12574, and it's also a bit of distance out.  It's primarily tundra between the two, but turns back to straight talus at the summit.
Algonquin and even better views of other Indian Peaks.
I had warmed up significantly, so I took the hoodie off Gunner who seemed as happy as ever to be there.  We ran out of water up here, or rather he ran out of water and then I gave him my last, knowing we'd find an ample supply upon descent.
The route I picked was fine for human travel, but not the best for dogs.  As I'd discover a few weeks later, it probably would've been better if I'd let him off leash to pick his own way.  I know he'll stay with and follow me anywhere, and this loose talusy descent proved that.
We were around 11000 feet and the best option would've probably been to descend to Coney Lake, but I still had it in my mind that we'd do Coney Island to finish off the area.  So we headed north and up the gully, stopping at the small body of water below Sawtooth to rehydrate and have some snacks.  We feed him twice a day normally, on these big hike days he also gets a third meal interspersed throughout the day with some special treats mixed into his normal diet. 
Gunner looking regal.
Sawtooth impressive from the pond.
I looked wistfully at Coney Island.  Yes I wanted to do it today, but I had to be back at a certain time for a meeting.  The weather prediction had now gotten to the possible bad part of the day, though things still looked good where I was.  Coney Island was only 500ish vertical feet, but it looked like loose talus the entire way.  
Loose, though not that much up.
And I felt a little guilty for making Gunner descend the loose stuff already.  Though I knew he'd follow me willingly, I didn't feel like going up this slope was a good idea.  So we headed back.
Still above tree line, the scenery in this area was awesome. 
Gunner agreed.
It was pretty easy to find a way down back to the trail here.  For awhile it seemed like we were following a very old human trail.  A few animal trails had us cross the creek and pick the official trail back up.
Of course, we had to stop at Coney Creek to eat some water and hang out a bit before heading down. The road felt like it took forever to get down, but we got back to the car soon enough.  Gunner will normally get in and pace around, circling a few times before he finds his spot.  This time he got in, immediately laid down, and did not move the entire way home.  I looked at my GPS tracker to find that we'd done a little over 19 miles and a little less than 5000 feet of elevation gain.  No wonder!
My buddy.
After some rest and other hiking adventures, we headed back to the same place a month later with an easier and shorter day planned.  I'd made a pretty big push in August and September, and here I was, about to finish Boulder County and Indian Peaks on the same day.  
I'm looking at Gunner sleeping on the couch next to me as I write this.  He's a pretty amazing dog.  He's been a great hiking buddy over the years, though with all the time spent in RMNP, he hasn't always been allowed to come along.  I feel bad about that, particularly in light of the death of our other dog earlier this year.  So now my goal is to make his time as high quality as possible.  
He's been with me more than any other being on Boulder County peaks, so it seemed appropriate that he'd be my only companion for the day. 
Beaver Reservoir at sunrise. 
The approach is exactly the same for the most part.
Another break at Coney Creek to eat some water.
Peaks in the distance.
I made one navigational error.  It looks like you should leave the trail to start up Coney Islands long east ridge before you cross the creek, but it will be much easier to stay on the trail for a few minutes longer, cross the creek, and then head up.  There isn't really a much of a creek, but the trail is wet, and you'll be in a small clearing.  Some bushwhacking awaits.
Dog looking pensive. 
I knew he enjoyed hiking, but I never knew how much of a mountain goat he was until today.  We stopped in a slightly sheltered talusy area for a quick snack, and he was doing something like this.  Well, he was only two feet off the ground, but he had his front two paws pushed into the side of a large rock, and one of his back paws doing the opposite with his fourth leg just hanging there.  Impressive.
Treeline is reached, but there's still some scrubby stuff and plenty o' talus.  We continued on as the day got windier.
Nearing the summit.
Back down to the valley.
 
Sawtooth from near the summit. 
Finally I could tell we were almost there.  I got the camera ready.
At the summit with the talus slope we'd descended a month prior on the lower left. 
 
Dog at the top.  We didn't stay long due to the wind.
On the summit, my 87th of 87 Boulder County peaks, and 37th of 37 Indian Peaks Wilderness peaks.  I was pretty happy, and said a few words to remember my dog Jersey, who had done the second most Boulder County peaks of any being with me.  In his memory.
To get down we headed back a short distance the way we'd come, and then descended directly north.  I let him off leash to do this, and found he was quite capable at picking his own way safely, though he always stayed within ten or so feet of me.  After a short leap from boulder to boulder near the bottom I heard him yelp.  I checked his paws to find he had an injury and was bleeding a little.  Fortunately, his ability to walk did not seem to be effected at all, and when we got home and I cleaned his paws, I did not find any wound.
Looking as happy as can be.
This is the official Buchanan Pass trail head, at the end of Coney Creek Road.  We started back, and the road didn't feel any shorter this time.
But of course, we had to stop for a quick dip in and drink from Coney Creek.  
We got back to the car and he did his normal routine to settle in, then stuck his head out of the window for the first part of the ride home.  He curled up on the passenger seat, and laid his head on my lap until we got home.  
This is a story of triumph and of a lasting friendship, yet another forged in the mountains.  I think back to the day we met Gunner at the Boulder Humane Society.  He was so scared he wouldn't even come out of the room he was in to meet us.  I had to pick him up and carry him to the car because he would not budge.  We often talk about the warning given that he would never be a dog to take on hikes.
It didn't take long for him to come around.  Peanut butter, love, and a little time was all that was needed.  Now he is an exceptionally loyal dog.  He would follow me to the ends of the earth.  As my wife noted one night when I came home from work as she was feeding him, he loves me more than food, as he left his dinner to come greet me.  I know Jersey liked us alot, and loved us in his way.  When Gunner looks at me I see something beyond love in his eyes.
It was awesome to share these two days with him.  It was great to have him along for this major list finisher, even though he has no concept of what that means.  I felt extremely happy to stand on the summit of Coney Island, to think back on all the early morning wake ups, the sunrises, the miles out and back and the feet up and down.  
These were two fun days, and certainly within the capability of the intrepid explorer to do in a day.  After all, you do pass back by Coney Island on the way down from Algonquin, or it could be done in the opposite direction.  From research and the experience of others, the north face of Coney Island seems like the best approach either up or down to add on, with cliffs to the west and south.  The north side is steep and loose in places, but not cliffy.  Great fun for humans and canines alike, though make sure your pup is part mountain goat!
Link to hike map and GPX on Caltopo.
Day 1:
Red Deer Mountain, 12391 feet: 7.5 miles, 3241 foot gain.  Second class.  Strenuous-.
Sawtooth Mountain, 12304 feet: 8.6 miles, 3154 foot gain.  Second class.  Strenuous-.
Algonquin, 12574 feet: 10.3 miles, 3424 foot gain.  Second class.  Strenuous.
As a whole, this day covered 19.3 miles with 4128 feet of elevation gain in up to second class terrain.  Strenuous.
Day 2:
Coney Island, 11580 feet: 6.5 miles, 2430 foot gain.  Second class.  Moderate+.
As a whole, this day covered 13.5 miles with 2661 feet of elevation gain in up to second class terrain.  Moderate+.