Thursday, October 6, 2011

Tanima Peak and Environs.

This week brought me another fun and long hike deep into the heart of Wild Basin. I started from the trail head shortly after 6, heading for Thunder Lake and Tanima Peak behind it.
As usual, I took the campsite shortcut trail to cut some distance and time off of my hike. The sun had risen enough by then...
Sun hits Copeland Mountain in the early morning.
Where I got lost last time.
Tanima Peak over the lake.
The NPS cabin.
Panorama!
I had made it to the lake in around 2.5 hours, and stopped at the cabin for a bite to eat. After finishing up, I surveyed Tanima Peak to try to find the most logical way to the top. Like last time, I opted to stay in one of the rocky gullies to avoid bushwhacking and dead fall. And like last time, that plan worked out quite well.
I crossed the lake at its exit, and started my way up. There was a little bit of a trail leading around the foot of the peak.
Mt. Alice, Chiefs Head Peak, Pagoda Mountain, Longs Peak, and Mt. Meeker as seen from Tanima Peak.
Thunder Lake from the ascent of Tanima Peak.
Isolation Peak, Frigid Lake, Moomaw Glacier, and Eagles Beak as seen from Tanima Peak.
Copeland Mountain and Mahana Peak.
The steep drop off of the north face of Tanima Peak.
Like Copeland Mountain, I found this peak to have numerous false summits. Time after time I thought I was about to arrive at the top, only to find I had more yet to go. But I made it!
Lake of Many Winds and Boulder Grand Pass from near the summit.
Summit register intact and signed. Only three ascents in the past month.
Looking south from the summit.
North from the summit.
Atop Tanima Peak, 12420 feet.
Looking back east along the ridge and down to Thunder Lake.
The next destination on my list was the Cleaver, a high point on the ridge marking the continental divide. I headed west along the ridge of Tanima Peak to the relatively smooth tundra. Along the way I saw these...
This marks the first time I have seen Bighorn Sheep in the park, and I was lucky to get my camera out in time as they quickly disappeared down this steep slope.
Looking east from the divide to Indigo Pond and Eagle Lake. Descending this slope was a bit harder for a person than a sheep.
Picture of the week? Looking west to Fourth Lake, Spirit Lake, and Lake Verna.
Looking south along the continental divide to the Cleaver. There is some third and fourth class along the way.
Interesting looking rock en route to the Cleaver.
Atop the Cleaver, 12200+ feet. Though there was some third and fourth class along the way, I didn't find any of it to be difficult or scary. I never felt like I was in danger of falling.
North along the divide to Mt. Alice.
The north face of Isolation Peak. Looks steep and loose. Wonder if anyone has ever climbed it?
Fifth Lake as seen from the Cleaver.
I descended back down the ridge to the most logical point to farther descent down the steep and loose slope to Indigo Pond. As with Boulder Grand Pass, the conditions led me to descend most of the slope not by hiking, but through a combination of butt sliding and 'screeing'.
It took some time, but I eventually made it down.
Nearing Indigo Pond.
Eagles Beak seen from the descent.
The blue green waters of Indigo Pond.
From the pond on down past Box Lake, I noticed a large amount of huge granite boulders. I know Tommy Caldwell has done some bouldering near Box Lake, but these higher boulders could be yours for the taking.
A great looking roof problem.
Some more huge boulders near Indigo Pond.
And more!
Looking back up from Indigo Pond. The Cleaver is on the left of the ridge line.
Looking east before dropping down to Eagle Lake.
Eagle Lake.
It started to rain when I got to Eagle Lake, something that would continue off and on for the rest of the day. Once I got to Eagle Lake, I was able to spy a trail and cairns that I was able to follow the rest of the way down. This made going alot easier.
A faint single rainbow seen from Eagle Lake. What does it mean?
Box Lake seen from above.
And looking west from Box Lake.
The Tommy Caldwell V3 Welcome to the Box.
The last destination on my list for the day was Mertensia Falls. The water that forms this fall comes from both Box and Eagle Lakes. I continued on the trail I found until I got to St. Vrain creek. I followed this down a bit before cutting back south to try to find the falls.
I ended up too far south, and had to head back up the creek a little bit before I found myself standing at the base of a spectacular and secluded water fall.
As seen from the Thunder Lake trail.
I found this small cascade/water fall on my bushwhack back to the trail from Mertensia Falls. I decided to christen it Gunner and Jersey Falls in honor of my dogs. The trip back to the trail was tough. By now I had been hiking for eleven hours or so, it was raining lightly, and starting to get dark. But I found it and started on my way back down.
I stopped here and there to take a short rest or have a bite to eat on the way back down. Over the summer I switched from eating Clif bars to my current hiking diet, which is largely composed of granola bars, Clif gels(for some caffeine), seitan jerky, and candy (thanks to Katie, who stashes some Spree in my bag). I have found this diet to work alot better, as after I had eaten two Clif bars, I really didn't want to eat any thing else, even though I know I have to.
Still by the end of the day I am excited to eat some real food that doesn't come in a wrapper or is pressed into a bar.
The sun was going down on my way back, and for the first time this year I got my headlamp back out. I made it back to the car at 702 pm, giving me a little bit under thirteen hours of hiking. Again, a large portion of that was off trail and above treeline.
This was a great hike. I felt great, saw some amazing sights, and had a good time. In retrospect, it would have been easier to get to the summit of Tanima Peak when I did Mt. Alice, but oh well. Fun nonetheless!
Tanima Peak east ridge via Thunder Lake, 12420 feet:
7.4 miles one way, 3920 foot gain. Strenuous due to gain and some second and third class sections.
Other destinations:
The Cleaver, 12200+ feet:
8.6 miles one way via Indigo Pond, 3700 foot gain. Strenuous due to gain and some third and fourth class sections.
Indigo Pond:
7.5 miles one way, 2680 foot gain. Harder moderate.
Eagle Lake:
7.2 miles one way, 2320 foot gain. Harder moderate.
Box Lake:
7 miles one way, 2240 foot gain. Harder moderate.
Mertensia Falls:
6+ish miles one way, 1860 foot gain. Harder moderate due to bushwhacking.
Thunder Lake:
6.2 miles one way, 2074 foot gain. Moderate.

Thursday, September 29, 2011

Copeland Mountain!!!

This was certainally one of the most satisfying hikes that I have done thus far. I had tried for this summit three times before, only to turn back or be shut down.
The first time was last year, and I decided it would be easier to approach from the Pear Lake side, as the Ouzel Lake side looked like more bushwhacking than I wanted to do. However, I spent most of the hike to the lake feeling pretty bad. I was pretty tired and my stomach wasn't feeling so great. When I got to the lake and saw the forest I'd have to go through, I decided that with the way I was feeling, it would be better to save it for another day.
The second time was when my sister and her boyfriend came out to visit this summer. We crossed Ouzel Creek and started up, but turned back shortly after. We went too far around the lake and were on some granite benches at the base of Copeland. In retrospect, this was a fairly difficult hike, and even if we had gotten past this area, we probably would have turned around at some point.
The third time was just a few weeks ago. There was some light rain as I was driving up rt7, but I was hoping it would blow over. As I started up the trail, I could see sunlight to the east and was hoping it would find its way to me. Unfortunately it started raining right as I dropped down to Ouzel Lake. I still tried to go up the slope, but when the rain got heavier, the ground got slipperier, and I got wetter and colder, I decided to head back.
With three attempts and three failures, there was alot of emotion tied up in this hike for me, and I left the house yesterday determined to summit no matter how long it took or what difficulties I would face. I had pretty much all of the outdoor clothing I owned, plus crampons and my ice axe, plus my normal survival gear and water pump. I brought a fair amount of food with me, more than enough needed for the hike. I was going to do it.
I started off from the Wild Basin trail head at 615am. I was feeling pretty good. I had off the day before and got to bed at a very decent time. The weather was going to be sunny all day long, and in fact, it already felt relatively warm. I started up the Thunder Lake trail.
Aspen changing to gold along St. Vrain creek.
More aspen.
A good view of Mt. Alice from the Bluebird Lake trail.
My eventual goal.
I reached Ouzel Lake in around two hours. I crossed the creek a little bit below the lake and set off around it. There is a pretty well delinated trail most of the way around the lake. I had decided from studying the north side of Copeland that it would probably be easiest to start up and find one of the rocky gullies cascading down. While this would entail alot of talus hopping, it would certainly be easier than bushwhacking up the slope.
I think in my last two attempts, I started up the slope at the wrong point. With my sister, we were nearly to the inlet creek to Ouzel Lake and this was too far. The next time I left the trail too early and was somewhere on the huge eastern flank of the mountain. This time I went most of the way around the trail, but started my bushwhack before reaching the inlet, but definitely after my last attempt. I crossed a small stream almost right away and was thinking I might have gone too far around, but stuck with it.
In only half an hour I broke treeline into one of the rocky gullies and started up in earnest. Bushwhacking in this area was particularly difficult since there is really alot of undergrowth and a large amount of dead fall to navigate around and over. I think finding one of these gullies was a good choice because the going was easier, though still difficult due to the steepness of the slope. It was so steep that I was jokingly thinking of strapping my crampons on just to go up the grassy areas.
Up up up!
Jet contrails.
Looking east to Chiefs Head Peak, Pagoda Mountain, Longs Peak, Mount Meeker. All over 13000 feet.
Crampons for grass? Since the hill is at least a 45 degree angle, it seemed like a good idea...
I finally broke treeline for good, and started up the talus fields. This mountain is rife with false summits. I would orient to the highest looking point, but before even finding myself there, would see a new, different high point. My familiarity with the surrounding landscape allowed me to roughly calculate how high I was and how far I had yet to go. Therefore, in looking up I could see the high point ahead of me couldn't be more that say 12700 feet, so I had to veer more west.
Finally I got the the flat plateau of the mountain...
Looking west to the true high point.
I cannot describe the elation I felt at this point. I finally did it! I was beyond happy and think I may have even cried a little bit. I ran the last few hundred yards and let out a yell of joy. I was there at last!
I took off my pack and had a look around. Copeland truly offers a great view of the entirety of Wild Basin, some of the more northern peaks in the park, Indian Peaks wilderness to the south, and the continental divide and higher peaks in RMNP to the west. I found the summit register intact, and with a log and pencil inside, and added my name. I also added the name of this blog, and if you found me from this, thanks for stopping by!
Then it was picture time...
Looking down to Bluebird Lake, Lark Pond, Pipit Lake, Isolation Lake, Mahana Peak.
Isolation Lake.
Cony Lake.
Ogalalla Peak, the only 13er in Wild Basin I have not done.
Elk Tooth and Ogalalla overlooking Cony Lake, with Indian Peaks Wilderness in the background.
To the north, showing Mt. Alice, Powell and McHenrys Peak (I think), Chiefs Head Peak, Longs Peak, and Mount Meeker. All over 13000 feet above sea level.
Isolation Peak to the northwest, also over 13000 feet. Ouzel Peak on the left, continental divide along the ridge line.
Upper Hutcheson Lake as seen from Copeland.
Elk Tooth and Indian Peaks Wilderness.
On top of Copeland, 13176 feet. I could get cell phone reception up here, and sent a text to my wife and sister, letting them know I was ok and had reached the top.
Finch Lake, and the plains far behind.
Ouzel Lake, seen from the descent of Copeland.
The steep cliff faces on the north side of Copeland.
On my way up I was west of these faces and it was second class the whole way. On the way down I descended through some of them and it was third class. I could have went more east to avoid this and make it easier, but as it is, it wasn't bad. The descent took me almost as long as the ascent. Again the steepness and looseness of the talus comes into play.
Back at Ouzel Lake, Mahana Peak behind.
I stopped before crossing the creek and ate. I found myself pretty hungry over the day. I headed back down, snapping this picture on the Bluebird Lake trail...
Aspen changing.
I got back to the car around 430, giving me around ten hours of hiking. Phew.
Copeland was something that I had to get done. It was a great feeling to stand on top. It is a fun hike, offering great views from the top. The hike after Ouzel Lake is fairly difficult- you gain around 3200 feet in 2 miles or so. Add to that the bushwhacking and talus hopping needed to gain the summit and you have a fairly challenging hike. It is second class as long as you stay east of the cliff faces on the north of the mountain, though it could be third or fourth to find your way through them (or fifth to climb them directly).
All told, this will go down as one of the most memorable summits I have done, as well as being the most satisfying.
Copeland Mountain, 13176 feet:
7ish miles one way, 4676 foot gain, second class once you pass Ouzel Lake. 3200 feet or so of that gain comes in the last two miles, after Ouzel Lake.
Strenuous hike due to bushwhacking and elevation gain.
Other sights along the way:
Ouzel Lake, Ouzel Falls, Calypso Cascades. Great views of Meeker, Longs, and Mt. Alice from the Bluebird Lake trail